Coffalo Coffee

Chris answers his own emails. That is the first thing to understand about Coffalo Coffee, a West Des Moines roaster where the guy who picks the beans is also the guy who recommends a roast to a stranger asking which bag to start with. The brand is tied to the Buffalo Field Campaign through a direct-trade Bison Brew, which is a real working relationship and not a label gimmick. Bags turn up at Fareway and Hy-Vee, at the roastery for pickup, or by mail with an email when the box ships.

The Mighty Buffalo blend is the workhorse, versatile across drip and French press. Bison Brew carries the direct-trade story. Mellow Bellow is the evening cup that won't keep you up. The decaf is full-bodied enough that caffeine-sensitive drinkers drink it instead of avoiding it. The espresso blend has its own slot.

What keeps coming back across customer accounts is the low-bitterness profile. People who used to dump cream and sugar say they stopped doing that with these beans.

There is no cafe. No counter where you sit down with a cortado. Coffalo is a roaster, a subscription, a market presence and a grocery shelf, full stop. For West Des Moines drinkers wanting fresh beans every couple weeks, or anyone sending Iowa-roasted coffee elsewhere, the model fits. For a chair somebody else owns, this is the wrong door.