Local Roasters Co.

Catherine works the counter at Local Roasters Co. in Wichita, and she'll walk a first-time customer through the bean board for as long as it takes. That's the operation. Long-term customers have been buying here for seven or eight years, often on a monthly subscription, and the shop also vends at the Old Town farmers market on weekends for customers who'd rather pick up beans at the market than make the trip to Douglas Avenue.

The beans are roasted on site. Colombia Cattleya medium roast is the recommended starting point for a first-time buyer trying to figure out what the roastery does well. A bourbon pecan torte flavored coffee handles the dessert-leaning side for customers who want a sweeter morning cup. The monthly subscription ships the rotation to your door if you'd rather not drive in.

This is not described as a cafe to settle into. It's a bean shop with serious staff and a long memory for what its regulars like. Home brewers and subscribers who want expert hand-holding on selection are the natural fit. Anyone looking for a laptop perch and a pastry case should plan a different stop in Wichita. The bean program and the patient counter staff are what the operation does well, and the seven- and eight-year customer accounts are the proof that the formula works for the people it works for.